Day 56: Py to the Refuge des Cortalets

Setting off under blue skies and an autumnal wonderland, speeding up excellent hillpaths through a forest where a tiny leat ran parallel to the path, reaching a closed refuge and heading on through forest with views of mount Canigou who is already wearing his snowy winter coat at the peak, arriving at a river and meeting a lovely Polish lady who pointed out that the path crossed the river only there was no bridge or stepping stones and it was ten metres wide and quite deep so taking off our boots and wading across, the rain starting as soon as we parted ways with our new friend, turning to hail, the path getting wetter and leading us over bouldery avanlanche paths that the guide described as chaos (an apt choice of words), three isards leaping about majestically, a late lunch then absolutely storming up to one last col – our last jaunt over 2000m and thank goodness for that because it actually started snowing –, heading down past a lake to the refuge where we were "welcomed" by being put in the outhouse rather than the main bit with all the other hikers (really unsure why-official reason is because we are cooking our own food. Questionable reasoning) but actually it's better in here (albeit a bit reminiscent of Father Ted) because we have our own fire place and it is blazing. Only a few crappy photos for this update because my phone has decided to corrupt almost all the ones i took today (so many epic pics of snowy peaks, one of us taken together by the nice Polish woman and so many glorious autumn leaves. and such a cute tiny baby cow. booo hiss. Please imagine gloriousness and hope the phone gods fix things...)

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Glorious snowy Canigou

We stayed in the Refuge de Cortalets which was the worst experience of hospitality that we had along the GR10 - the gardien was downright rude, unprofessional and irresponsible. If you can avoid staying there, then I’d really advise it. 

The gardien claimed that we had to stay in the outhouse/prison because we wanted to cook with a gas cooker. This did not make sense. We could have cooked in the outhouse and stayed in the main building with everybody else. I don’t know about you, but for me the word “refuge” suggests a welcoming, friendly shelter from the elements, not a freezing cold outhouse, a rude “welcome” and basically being treated like a second-class citizen just because you’re not one of the gardien’s mates.

Anyway, all’s well that ends well… we lit a huge fire, feasted, eventually got some sleep huddled up in the weird dank building and the next day we were on our way. I hope never to return to refuge "prison"!
 

Refuge prison

The vital statistics:
Total hiking time: 9h21
Peak: 2269m
Total ascent: 1852m
Total descent: 730m

Day 51: Ax-les-thermes to Coma d'Anyell

Heading back to Merens-les-Vals on the train after a double pastry breakfast, getting back on the GR10 on steep forest paths weighed down by our heaviest bags yet as we have SO much food (the longer we keep walking, the hungrier we get. 30 chocolate bars didn't seem like an unreasonable amount), cobbly paths up through a forest, discovering a natural thermal source where people have built little rock pools so you can have a totally natural thermal bath in the middle of the woods - my swimsuit was hanging to dry on the outside of my bag from yesterday so i changed quickly and jumped in to soak for a few minutes in the hot sulpher water- pure magic, devouring our first hardboiled eggs of the hike after we finally found an energy efficient method of cooking them, finding 3 four leaved clovers at once, emerging into a beautiful valley where a river was flowing and the faded remains of wildfire flowers were glowing apricot and red in the bright sunshine amidst rosehip bushes and rowan trees fit to burst with berries, autumn foliage all aglow and a coal tit fluttering about, climbing a steep bit of path to find a turquoise lake perched on the mountainside where marmots could be heard yipping and vultures circled overhead, another steep climb over boulders to the Porteille des Bésines where a spectacular panoramic view of where we'd been and where we were going opened up - high rocky mountains, pine forests, wiggly streams below, all the colours vibrant in the warm afternoon sun, heading down past a refuge and another glistening lake, negotiating confusing balissage, taking an old bit of path where the lines had been rubbed out and ending up on boulders again but quickly navigating out and down to another epic valley with a perfect pitch for the tent, a readymade fire pit and a stream to wash in, cooking dinner while the sky glowed flurescent flamingo shades and Gavin lighting his most epic fire yet as the moon peaked out from behind the mountain... today was a very good day in the mountains ♡

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The natural thermal source outside Merens-les-Vals was my favourite thermal spa experience of the whole hike. It is magical - tiny pools of hot thermal water that have collected in pools that local mountain pixies have built out of rocks. I almost walked on by without getting in but I knew I would regret it if I didn't have a dip. It was so enchanting to be sat in such a warm pool in the middle of a forest glade in September. I noticed some wax drips on the side of the pool - people must head up in the dark and light candles and have the most amazing evenings chilling out in the warm water. I want to return someday and do just that...

my firestarter

The vital statistics:
Total hiking time: 6h14
Peak: 2333m
Total ascent: 1483m
Total descent: 436m

Day 47: Angaka to Andorra (a river valley near Inclès)

Waking up in our cosy yurt, emerging to misty cloud, breakfasting and leaving origami birds for the yurt lady, making good progress on the plateau de Beille where the paths are cross country ski slopes in the winter, mountains of all shapes and sizes peaking out from the sea of clouds below, a raven perched on a post, etorki sarnies for first lunch, clambering over bouldery paths, up golden sandy coloured grass banks that were dotted with the red autumn foliage of myrtille bushes, heading up and along a crête that gave amazing views either side of jagged teethlike ridges and lakes and their wiggly inlets impossibly far below, choughs squawking as they flew by, vertigo related panicking from me when the path did stupid things and much reassurance from Gavin, heading down to the refuge de Ruhle where the cloudsea tide came in fully overhead shutting off all views, second lunch cooked by the sleepy gardien who had been napping -omelettes, mmm! - then out into the mist for a wee diversion off the GR10 to Andorra, passing two lakes but seeing nothing but cloud until we peaked over the Port to Andorra where a marmot yipped but stayed hidden and the sun shone down on a beautiful valley where the tent is pitched, a fire is lit and the sky glowed pink as it disappeared…
 

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Our golden Andorran valley

Before heading into Andorra we popped into the Refuge de Ruhle for a late lunch. We managed to procure some very tasty omelettes and wine once the gardien had woken up from his nap! At this point we were still uncertain about whether to bivouac near the refuge or press on to Andorra, but our decision was confirmed when the gardien told us that there was a snow warning in place for places over 2100m – which included the refuge itself. We could see from the map that it would be possible to descend much lower to wild camp in Andorra, and that's what we did. It was a very windy night, but no signs of snow whatsoever – and we kept ourselves warm in the evening with a wee campfire. If weather conditions are better and you're not interested in diverting off the GR10, it is possible to bivouac near the refuge.

The Vital Statistics:
Total hiking time: 8h45
Peak: 2400m
Total ascent: 1095m
Total descent: 880m

Day 37: Sentein to the cabane de Luzurs

 A peaceful morning in our deserted campsite, another stomp along a d-road, this time blasting out some Led Zeppelin to motivate our tired legs, flowery villages, turning back onto the GR10 (E branch), vertical forest paths that eventually got flatter, nostalgic pink flowery aromas filling the air, a sizeable wedge of brebis for lunch and bounties for snacking, an aquaduct/leat flowing alongside us for a while like a mini canal, a stupid electric fence blocking the path, arriving at the étang de Bethmale where we wanted to camp to find it chockablock with fishing people (a shock after not seeing a soul all day) so carrying on up through a steep forest, over a col onto the GR10 (D branch) past unreal skies and into another forest that was so thick with cloud it was prematurely dark, finding an unmanned shepherd’s cabin and settling in by the fireplace while rain drums down on the tin roof...

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La Cabane de Luzurs

The vital statistics:
Total time hiking: 7h36
Peak: 1414m
Total ascent: 1128m
Total descent: 437m

Day 30: Granges d'Astau to Lac Saussat

 

Saying goodbye to the PJs after breakfast (they're off back to civilization, warmth and sanity!), the sunshine reappearing less than half an hour after they had gone, heading up a nice track, catching my right shoe on a sharp edge and the whole thing ripping open, bursting into tears (we're two days walk from the next town!) then finding the whole thing hilarious, the nice refuge lady wrapping my foot in duct tape after we devoured delicious omelettes, a glorious waterfall cascading into the lac d'oô, a beer at the refuge de lac espingo, setting up our tent at the lac d'astau where another waterfall cascades, the cloud sinking down as we lit an awesome fire that warmed us right through as we ate enough spicy noodles for 4 people!

Close-up of that ripped open useless boot!

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If you're hiking this section and wondering which of the refuges to visit, I can highly recommend the Refuge d'Oô, situated by the Lac d'Oô. They were super friendly, made amazing omelettes and the view of the turquoise blue lake is incredible. The lady who served us was so kind and sympathetic when I showed her my ripped open boot. She found some duct tape and lovingly wrapped my foot up, like a nurse tending to a distressed patient. 

The refuge further up that was closer to where we stayed gave us a much frostier reception - literally and figuratively. It was freezing inside and the gardien was not the friendliest, even when we were happily spending money there....
 
The vital statistics: 
Total hiking time: 5h 
Peak: 1959m 
Total ascent: 860m 
Total descent: 119m

Day 29: Loudenvielle to Granges d'Astau

Waking up cosy and dry (this did not last long!), discovering exciting new jam flavours at breakfast (chestnut jam is my new favourite thing), local retirees expressing incredulous surprise that we were off hiking given the forecast, steep hills to a village called Germ where all the lampposts were bright blue and a refuge served us coffee and takeaway wine for later, finding my 3rd five-leaved clover, cows emerging from the mist one at a time until we were suddenly surrounded, the mist turning to rain which got steadily heavier until recently dryish boots were freshly saturated, heading to an unmanned refuge for shelter which took so long to find that we gave up all hope (especially when the hail started), a roof suddenly appearing in the mist, discovering a sweet young French couple inside who had just started a fire and sharing our wine with them as we warmed up, peering out the doorway to see glimpses of epic waterfalls through the cloud, adding the PHS to the table graffiti, heading back out into the rain and wading through at least 4 rivers cursing and swearing at the path, unfathomably steep, horrendous uphill paths that went on far too long up to a col, soggy marmots yipping on either side and braving the rain, patches of purple flowers, zigzags down through the wettest forest ever encountered (surprisingly pleasant given the conditions), arriving at an Auberge and contemplating camping, realising that was mad, getting a room and unpacking our bags to realise everything was drenched and going for a boozy dinner. Our wettest day of hiking yet but somehow also strangely enjoyable! We will perservere!!

The Vital statistics: 
Total hiking time: 7h45  
Peak: 2161m 
Total ascent: 1282m
Total descent: 1109m

Day 16: Lac Roumassot to la Plaine du Soussouéou

A chilly night by the lake, waking up to perfect lake reflections, so many cows with bells grazing that it sounded like churchbells ringing out over the mountains, forest paths down to the lac de Bious Artigous, coffee and route plotting, watching helicopters fly in to deliver supplies to the high up refuges, a tasty lunch but no room at the inn in Gabas, more forest paths so steep and mossy it was like climbing a giant green staircase thru the trees, a friendly robin, diverting off the GR10 to the Plaine de Soussouéou to camp, emerging out of the forest to realise its a golden paradise valley seated high up in the clouds, a kestrel hovering over as we pitched our tent amidst a carpet of purple crocuses next to the river, a boisterous fire and a brebis feast.

The Vital Statistics:
Total time hiking: 8h55
Peak: 2164m
Total ascent: 1675m
Total descent: 504m  

Day 15: Borce (vallée d'aspe) to Lac Roumassot

Restocking our supplies at the gîte shop, climbing up along the dramatic Chemin de la Mâture, steep forest paths and waterfalls, a cloudy valley, brebis sarnies, marmots leaping about everywhere, a stoat bounding over the rocks, wheatears fluttering around, birds of prey appearing elusively in the mist, sunshine breaking thru the cloud to light up the valley below, a close encounter with an over-friendly pony that tried to eat my pants at the Col d'Ayous, the Pic de Midi d'Ossau looking unreal as it floated in the clouds above us as we descended to the lac d'ayous, a grazed knee, restorative wine at the refuge then wild camping in the clouds by the lac Roumassot with a jolly good fire to keep us warm...

Oh tell me why, do we build castles in the sky...

The Vital Statistics:

Total hiking time: 8h55

Peak: 2164m

Total ascent: 1675m

Total descent: 504m