Waking up cold to another frosty morning, feeling extra tired and sore from yesterday's bouldering episode, walking down what was effectively a waterfall before the valley finally turned nice (not that we'll forget its darker side any time soon), people gathering bilberries in the sunshine, the lake looking all pretty and reflective, stopping to cook spicy instant noodles and a herd of horses taking a keen interest - this was our 3rd ambush since we started hiking and the most invasive yet: bags were licked, clothes were nibbled and spatulas were whole-heartedly chewed before being discarded. At least 60% of our possessions have now been violated by horses! Marching towards Merens-les-vals, a town the guide had us believe was a thriving metropolis, discussing all the food we would buy there (supplies were down to just 3 cuppa soups and some plain couscous. No chocolate left whatsoever. Dire) only to discover that the only shop in this one street village closed for "winter" 11 days ago, despair, tears, and then putting our brilliant minds together to form a new plan: simply hop on a bus to the nearest actual town and camp there for two nights, resupplying and resting before coming back to the GR10 the day after tomorrow. So that's we are doing. The campsite here is perfect (a little peaceful hill for hikers so Colin feels right at home), we bought all the food in the supermarket, found an excellent pizzeria and a owl is hooting whilst the moon glows. Oh and it just so happens to be another thermal spa town so no complaints from me ;)
After the disappointment of Merens-les-Vals, Ax-les-Thermes did not disappoint. There are supermarkets, cafés and restaurants galore. We ventured to a campsite slightly out of the main town which was rather lovely indeed - Camping Le Malezou.
We found an absolutely amazing restaurant for dinner - la Trattoria, where we feasted like happy happy hikers
P.S. Unfortunately I don't seem to have recorded the vital statistics for this day
:(
Fending off an attack from two marauding grey ponies before we had even made coffee, admiring the Goldeneye dam and mirrored mountains on the lake, climbing up through an enchanted forest past a fluttery coal tit, toadstools and purple pompom flowers and emerging to amazing views of cloud filled valleys below, descending through golden plains and raspberry woods to the lac d'Oule where even tinier frogs than yesterday hopped underfoot kamikaze-style, a 3 course lunch at the fanciest refuge yet, detouring off the GR10 to climb steep ski slopes where fat marmots sunbathed and lazed, the sounds of a rumpus rave turning out to be a huge herd of cows getting directed our way, veering off the path and getting followed by one lonely/angry cow to the mud bath of a rival herd the cloud closing in and offering only the briefest teasing glimpses of epic neighbouring mountains either side, a red kite swooping overhead, finding a tiny black and white magpie feather, descending hundreds of metres through a kneecap-eroding forest, wild thyme growing by the path, long tailed tits whizzing over very tired hikers, getting driven to the nearest pizzeria by an excellent taxi man and now the goodnight hoots of a tawny owl. Twoo-oooh-oooh!
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| That cloud river |
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| Teeny tiny frog! |
Despite the gardien’s initial horror at learning that two of us were vegetarian (he actually reacted with “Oooh la la la la !”) the Refuge de l’Oule served us an excellent meal of grilled vegetables , freshly cooked on the plancha.
The campsite we stayed in Vielle-Aure wins the award for least friendly welcome of the entire hike (so I won’t link to it)
We had an excellent feeding in Saint-Lary-Soulan at the Pizzeria La Main à la Pâte
The vital statistics:
Total hiking time: 10h22m
Peak: 2284m
Total ascent: 677m
Total descent: 813m
Breakfast feasting and pointless post office faffing at Gourette, buying the only shorts that fit in the shop - mens swimming trunk shorts (surprisingly comfy and snazzy), up and over a col out of ski station trauma, stupid paths thru farmland and unscenic lanes, walking along roads (boo!) but going through awesome cavelike tunnels (yay!), realising the cheese we bought was well past its sell by date and rather stinky, the pretty town of Arrens-Marsous, late afternoon sunshine making the mountains glow, camping by a gîte on a farm where bunnies hop about, the cows moo like banshees, a friendly cat snuggles up to me and an owl hoots as the stars come out to light up the valley...
The gîte d’étape, Les Viellettes http://www.gitelesviellettes.com/location-gite-etape-viellettes.php was very friendly and a great place to bivouac.
The Vital Statistics:
Total time hiking: 8h35
Peak: 1830m
Total ascent: 1203m
Total descent: 1538m
