Day 55: Mantet to Py

Waking up cosy to views of autumnal hills appearing and disappearing in a cloud of rain, begrudgingly trudging out into the wet cold morning, getting instantly soaked and heading up and over a col on a path that varied betwen crappy slippery goblin tunnels and a windy D road all the way to... the next village where a lovely man opened up his shop (usually shut on Wednesdays) and interrupted his lunch to make us up a room at his B&B where it is dry and warm and cosy again. Sometimes two hour's progress is enough for one day :)

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We were so very happy to arrive in Py and find another warm and dry place to stay. We might have only spent two hours walking but it was enough to get soaked through again and all we wanted to do was get dry, get provisions and eat! The very kind owners of L’auberge de Py  were hosting a family meal on the day we arrived, but they very kindly popped out, opened up the shop for us and set up a room whilst we waited. We were so happy to spend the wet afternoon warming ourselves and drying all our possessions in a cosy room. We ate a hearty breakfast the next day up in the restaurant which involved lots of local jam and delicious bread. If you’re in need of somewhere cosy along the GR10, then I would highly recommend this place!

The vital statistics:
Time spent hiking: 1h50!
Peak: 1765m
Total ascent: 194m
Total descent: 755m

Day 54: Cabane de l'Orri to Mantet

Waking up in a frosty tent again (hooray for thermals) and embarking upon in a pretty thankless day of hiking up steep, stony paths into the clouds, and down diabolically steep slippery paths back through the clouds. Highlights/lowlights included negotiating our way past a huge beast of a bull, a frog, a huge dead snake, spotting a goldcrest, glorious autumnal foliage on the rare occasions the clouds parted, soaking wet grass that saturated our boots, dark viewless paths in murky forests, perfect red toadstools and glistening soggy spiderwebs, freezing winds on cols, golden grassy plateaus, cows blocking the slippery narrow path into the village which promised four places to stay (all open all year according to the guide. lies), getting turned away from three but finding a log fire, cold beer and cheap cosy lodgings in the fourth.

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Autumn mornings

 Not for the first time, the French guidebook proved to be rather outdated and just plain wrong about the facilities available in the tiny village of Mantet. It was very much fermé for the season - perhaps if you turn up there in July or August, you might have a more welcoming experience and a choice of four places to stay and eat, but on a cold, wet evening in late September we had no such luck. It really is a very small (and steep) village, and given the awful weather and the fact that it was steadily getting dark by the time we turned up, there was nobody out in the streets to ask for help. There had been no phone signal anywhere for the whole day so I hadn’t been able call ahead to make inquiries or book anything and even in the village there was no mobile service whatsoever.We were turned away by all three of the places in the village itself – with no help or suggestion about where we might go and stay, despite the awful conditions.We would really have welcomed anything and considered trying to pitch our tent on one of the few flat spaces of earth above the town before it got too dark to see. We were feeling pretty hopeless, but luckily we persevered and decided to check out the fourth option. Thank goodness we did – we found a little piece of GR10 magic in the form of a charming gite d’étape, La Cavale. It was 13 euros each for a 4 person room, but seeing as there was nobody else there, we got the room to ourselves and slept on a huge double bunk bed which was very comfy and cosy indeed. There was a kitchen downstairs where we cooked ourselves a huge plate of pasta and – the very best bit – a huge log fire burning where we could warm our toes and dry our boots just like I had dreamed.  Like many of the other gites, refreshments and supplies were available on an honesty box system and we honestly drank all the beer in the fridge! 

The Vital Statistics:
Total hiking time: 8h53
Peak: 2384m
Total ascent: 1462m
Total decent: 1717m  

Day 53: Lac des Bouillouses to the Cabane de l'Orri

Setting out over the barrage on the lake and into a Christmas tree pine forest, our boots making satisfying little crunch crunch crunch noises as we trod on frosty blades of grass, stepping occasionally on frozen puddles that cracked and shattered into crooked shards, good flat wide paths for stamping along at a good pace, a frog, a coal tit, a great tit, ski lifts and wooden chalets then down into flowery Bolquère where we finally found a good restaurant for omelettes, heading out on a warm sunny track past pretty meadows, rowan berries and rosehips galore again, through two more pretty villages, almost staying at the 2nd one but pressing on up into a lightfilled forest past another aggressive patou dog, 2 hunters with guns :( and down into a darker murky woodland with dodgy paths where the sound of some weird wailing creatures could be heard all around (we eventually worked out they were cows although they sound more like distressed hell beasts), past autumnal patchwork mountainsides down to a lovely spot by a river to camp and rest our tired selves after a long day and many kilometres. 

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We were happy to start the day in the warmth of our hotel, making the most of the serve-yourself buffet breakfast before we set off into the frosty winter wonderland that awaited us outside. Much of the morning was spent in forest, before we reached another ugly ski station: this time, Pyrenees2000. Then it was down into the pretty little town of Bolquère, which, like so many of the small mountain towns that we passed through, promised more than it delivered in the way of civilization. The local shop was very much shut and despite the fact that a local auberge was open and serving food to many customers, it was not actually open unless you had already reserved a table. Luckily, we found a second option for lunch in the way of a hotel that also had a restaurant: the Hotel Lassus. The staff were incredibly friendly and welcoming and we had an excellent lunch of omelettes and fried potatoes. Luckily I noticed a note on the menu, proudly announcing that their potatoes are so fried in duck fat (!) and therefore not veggie friendly. Yuck. Anyway, I explained that we were vegetarian and asked if we could have boiled potatoes instead and after a look of deep confusion the waitress happily suggested that we could have potatoes fried in olive oil instead. A useful reminder that it is always worth checking these things and studying the menu carefully if you want to avoid inadvertent animal products slipping into your food.

On a side note, the two men with guns that we passed in the woods later in the afternoon were further proof that the hunting season had started in earnest. It's really rather unsettling to happen upon people with guns in the middle of nowhere.

The vital statistics:
Total hiking time (including our rather long lunch): 8h47
Peak: 1994m
Total ascent: 759m
Total descent: 944m

Day 52: Coma d'Anyell to Lac des Bouillouses

Last night the moon emerged from over the mountainside whilst we had our fire and it was so bright it lit the whole valley up like a magic silvery grey negative version of day; another parallel moon world. Today we woke up cosy in our new thermals despite the frost that had formed outside the tent, we set off up the valley all golden in the sunlight, with rocky peaks all around, and a wee murky lake, where vultures circled and rows of mountains stood in line on the horizon back west, reaching the Coll de Coma d'Anyell (2470m) and descending into a totally different landscape — orange grassy marshes, a huge dark grey lake and darker mountains beyond — reaching the bottom where we had lunch and the temperature dropped and up we went climbing a steep slope to the Portella de la Cerava (2426m) past pink granite mounds and the distant yip of marmots, down into yet another valley where the rocks were deep purply black and a plain stretched off into the distance, all golden grass and the deep green of pine trees, thunder clapping in the valley we had left behind and us marching onwards and downwards on pleasant paths past more hidden marmots, my ankle buckling and twisting, the path eventually turning and meeting the huge lac des Bouillouses which we walked along as rain started and turned to hail and the ground quickly saturated and the air filled with the scent of damp pine needles, reaching a huge refuge/hotel and getting a lovely snug room where I bashed my shin on the sharp bedpost (my right leg is now just one big painful bundle of silliness. I complain but its not serious) and we feasted and sheltered whilst the sky cleared and did pretty sunset things.

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It was too cold and wet to pitch Colin the tent at the end of the day (plus we had entered a national park, so there were limitations about where exactly you can pitch a tent and we wouldn't have been able to have fire), so we checked ourselves into the hotel Bones Hores, a dramatic and historic building with amazing views over the lake. We sipped americanos in the cosy bar and feasted at the restaurant, happy to be inside, our bags and clothes drying off in the cosy warmth.

By the lake, right before the hailstorm

The vital statistics:
Total hiking time: 5h45
Peak: 2468m
Total ascent: 661m
Total descent: 732m

Day 51: Ax-les-thermes to Coma d'Anyell

Heading back to Merens-les-Vals on the train after a double pastry breakfast, getting back on the GR10 on steep forest paths weighed down by our heaviest bags yet as we have SO much food (the longer we keep walking, the hungrier we get. 30 chocolate bars didn't seem like an unreasonable amount), cobbly paths up through a forest, discovering a natural thermal source where people have built little rock pools so you can have a totally natural thermal bath in the middle of the woods - my swimsuit was hanging to dry on the outside of my bag from yesterday so i changed quickly and jumped in to soak for a few minutes in the hot sulpher water- pure magic, devouring our first hardboiled eggs of the hike after we finally found an energy efficient method of cooking them, finding 3 four leaved clovers at once, emerging into a beautiful valley where a river was flowing and the faded remains of wildfire flowers were glowing apricot and red in the bright sunshine amidst rosehip bushes and rowan trees fit to burst with berries, autumn foliage all aglow and a coal tit fluttering about, climbing a steep bit of path to find a turquoise lake perched on the mountainside where marmots could be heard yipping and vultures circled overhead, another steep climb over boulders to the Porteille des Bésines where a spectacular panoramic view of where we'd been and where we were going opened up - high rocky mountains, pine forests, wiggly streams below, all the colours vibrant in the warm afternoon sun, heading down past a refuge and another glistening lake, negotiating confusing balissage, taking an old bit of path where the lines had been rubbed out and ending up on boulders again but quickly navigating out and down to another epic valley with a perfect pitch for the tent, a readymade fire pit and a stream to wash in, cooking dinner while the sky glowed flurescent flamingo shades and Gavin lighting his most epic fire yet as the moon peaked out from behind the mountain... today was a very good day in the mountains ♡

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The natural thermal source outside Merens-les-Vals was my favourite thermal spa experience of the whole hike. It is magical - tiny pools of hot thermal water that have collected in pools that local mountain pixies have built out of rocks. I almost walked on by without getting in but I knew I would regret it if I didn't have a dip. It was so enchanting to be sat in such a warm pool in the middle of a forest glade in September. I noticed some wax drips on the side of the pool - people must head up in the dark and light candles and have the most amazing evenings chilling out in the warm water. I want to return someday and do just that...

my firestarter

The vital statistics:
Total hiking time: 6h14
Peak: 2333m
Total ascent: 1483m
Total descent: 436m

Day 50: Resting in Ax-les-thermes

 

A day of eating, buying thermals for cold mountain nights and thermal spa-ing. And more pizza of course.

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The Thermal spa at Ax-les-Thermes, Les Bains du Couloubret is second to none! It was 15 euros for two hours and worth every centime. There were so many different pools and areas - a huge indoor pool with various jets, a series of outdoor pools (fabulous in the warm September sun), a whirlpool, a bubbling jacuzzi pool, a huge hammam, and so much more besides. I felt thoroughly pampered after my two hours there!

We finally decided to add some thermals to our kit as we had spent a few too many nights in a frozen tent and even with all our clothes on, it was getting much too cold. We also knew that it was not likely to get any cooler as we'd have to spend a few more nights above 2000m before we were done so buying thermals was the only sensible thing to do. Luckily there was a really good sale on at a hiking shop that was right by our campsite, Telemark Pyrenees, and, after trying on half the shop, I decided on a set of thermals by Woolpower - green leggings and a grey jumper. They are seriously toasty, particularly when layered up with other clothes. Although this brand is rather pricey, I would definitely recommend them as they are soft, comfy and really easy to wash (despite being 60% merino wool, you can wash them up to 60 degrees celsius if you need to). Nothing beats being cosy in a tent!

Day 49: La vallée du Montiguillou to Ax-les-thermes (via Merens-les-vals)

Waking up cold to another frosty morning, feeling extra tired and sore from yesterday's bouldering episode, walking down what was effectively a waterfall before the valley finally turned nice (not that we'll forget its darker side any time soon), people gathering bilberries in the sunshine, the lake looking all pretty and reflective, stopping to cook spicy instant noodles and a herd of horses taking a keen interest - this was our 3rd ambush since we started hiking and the most invasive yet: bags were licked, clothes were nibbled and spatulas were whole-heartedly chewed before being discarded. At least 60% of our possessions have now been violated by horses! Marching towards Merens-les-vals, a town the guide had us believe was a thriving metropolis, discussing all the food we would buy there (supplies were down to just 3 cuppa soups and some plain couscous. No chocolate left whatsoever. Dire) only to discover that the only shop in this one street village closed for "winter" 11 days ago, despair, tears, and then putting our brilliant minds together to form a new plan: simply hop on a bus to the nearest actual town and camp there for two nights, resupplying and resting before coming back to the GR10 the day after tomorrow. So that's we are doing. The campsite here is perfect (a little peaceful hill for hikers so Colin feels right at home), we bought all the food in the supermarket, found an excellent pizzeria and a owl is hooting whilst the moon glows. Oh and it just so happens to be another thermal spa town so no complaints from me ;)

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After the disappointment of Merens-les-Vals, Ax-les-Thermes did not disappoint. There are supermarkets, cafés and restaurants galore. We ventured to a campsite slightly out of the main town which was rather lovely indeed - Camping Le Malezou.

We found an absolutely amazing restaurant for dinner - la Trattoria, where we feasted like happy happy hikers

P.S. Unfortunately I don't seem to have recorded the vital statistics for this day
:(